Faux Painting Preparation Tutorial

Use these preparation techniques to apply a faux paint finish to glass, ceramic, metal, plastic and wood, as well as, drywall, plaster and masonry.

Evaluate the Surface

Any surface is ready for a decorative finish as long as the existing surface is sound. If the existing finish is peeling or has other defects, the damage must be repaired before proceeding. Always remove any loose material such as rust or peeling paint. Sand or use a stiff brush to smooth the surface and apply an appropriate primer to prepare the surface for the basecoat.

If you have cracks or peeling paint on your walls and you plan to paint or create a faux finish, you will have to repair the damage before proceeding. If you are applying a faux finish to rough wall surfaces, use a sponge painting or plastic wrap painting process to help hide the imperfections. Most other faux finishes don't work well to hide wall damage. Frottage, strie' dragging, stone and leather finishes fall into this category. Smooth out any rough areas before creating these finishes on walls.

Faux Painting over Wallpaper

For best results wallpaper should be removed before painting or decorating with a faux finish. If you must paint over wallpaper, first determine what type of paper you are dealing with. You will usually find two basic types, one that has a vinyl covering and one that doesn't. Vinyl covered wallpaper will have a glossy finish and is very water resistent. The vinyl may be very thick or it may be very thin, either way, prime it with a shellac–based primer sealer before faux finishing. Ventilate the room well and wear a painter's respirator while applying the primer.

If the paper is not covered with vinyl it will be very water absorbent. This type of wallpaper should be primed with at least 2 coats of primer or use two coats of alkyd finish paint and skip the priming. follow the drywall and plaster preparation procedure covered below before applying the finish paint. Mix the paint in the base color for your faux painting project. Apply one coat and let it dry overnight, apply the second coat and wait at least 12 hours before proceeding with faux painting.

Preparing the Project Surface

See the chart below for preparation by surface type. For wall projects caulk before applying a primer or basecoat. Caulk any gaps between trim and walls with a good quality latex caulk. Don't use pure silicone caulks intended for showers and sinks, paint and glaze will not stick to these caulks.

Mask adjacent surfaces before applying any paint. This includes trim molding and ceilings. Use a couple of strips of painter's masking tape to create at least a 3 inch barrier on all surrounding surfaces.

Basecoat

The first step to the decorative painting process is the application of a basecoat. The best basecoat for most effects is an eggshell or semi–gloss latex paint. Alkyd or latex paint can be used but in most cases latex is the best and easiest choice.

Paint the project with the basecoat. While you're at it, paint a scrap piece of cardboard or other similar material with the basecoat. Use this board to test glaze colors and practice the technique you will be using for the finish. It's best to give the basecoat plenty of time to dry before proceeding with the application of the glaze coat. If the paint is too soft the application of a wet glaze may loosen the film and make it sag and run.

Paint and Glaze Color

See Mixing Glaze for color variations and mixing instructions for glaze and paint. Choose the colors you want for your faux painting project from a paint supplier's color chart. Most paint supply stores will have charts with color schemes which are perfect for choosing complimentary colors.

In general it's better to use light colors in small room and darker colors in large rooms. For a small bathroom or powder room use a basecoat color that's darker in comparison to the glaze coat. For example use a light tan basecoat and a lighter tan or cream color for the glaze coat. This will create a bright, open feeling in the finish.

This color scheme works well for a sponge or rag painting effect using just one or two glaze coats. For a dramatic frottage, strie' or opaque sponge painting finish in a larger room such as a bedroom, dining room or living room, use a light shade for the basecoat and follow with darker glaze coats.

Always buy all the paint you will need at one time. It may be impossible to get the exact color mixed again. For an average 9x12 room, a gallon of basecoat paint will usually be enough assuming a good quality paint. If you are making a radical change to the color you may need more paint for multiple coats.

The following is a list of preparation procedures for most projects.

• Ceramics and Glass: prepare these surfaces by wiping with denatured alcohol to clean the surface. Apply a coat of primer sealer followed by an alkyd, eggshell or semi–gloss basecoat. Allow each coat to dry according to the label directions.
• Wood: remove any peeling paint from wood surfaces, sand rough spots with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper and apply a latex or alkyd primer to any bare spots. Allow the primer to dry and apply a latex or alkyd basecoat. Let the basecoat dry overnight.
• Metal: remove any rust from the surface using steel wool or a wire brush and then prime the rust spots with a rust inhibiting primer. When the rust inhibitor is dry, apply an alkyd eggshell or semi-gloss basecoat. Allow 24 hours for drying.
• Masonry: remove any loose sand or other material using a stiff brush. Use latex or masonry primer and base coat with latex paint. For a natural brick finish under a crackled paint finish, seal the brick with a clear masonry sealer before applying the finish.
• Plastic: plastic doesn't typically hold a painted finish well but for plastic objects that won't see high traffic, like vases or picture frames, a faux finish can be applied. Prime plastic with a general purpose spray paint and base coat with a latex or alkyd-based paint.
• Plaster and Drywall: remove any peeling paint and spackle over the damage. Repair any holes, cracks or water damage. Prime any new drywall or plaster repairs with latex primer or flat latex paint. Base coat with two coats of latex eggshell or semi-gloss paint and let it dry overnight.