DIY Wall Framing a New Door

This page covers framing an existing wall to install a new door. Illustrations and instructions cover planning the frame and installing a new king stud. Go to these links to cut out the existing wall studs and build a header, install jack studs and cut the soleplate and frame a wall for a new window. Also see how to demo a wall and installing doors and windows for help with wall demolition and installation. For ease of installation, and to save time and money, use a pre–hung door or window when making a new installation.

Door Frame Structure

The framing for a new door or window will support the structural load of the wall when the existing studs have been removed. The cripple studs, which are the remainder after cutting the original studs, transfer the load from the top plate to the header. The header is supported by the jack and king studs. These studs transfer the wall load to the soleplate and the soleplate transfers the load to the floor joists and foundation.

To start any new opening in a wall first remove the plaster or drywall in the location for the new framing. Leave as much of the original wall material in place as possible when doing "demo" work to avoid extensive wall repairs later.

Planning the New Frame

Plan to build the new frame 1 inch wider and ½ inch higher than the size of the new door jamb. This extra space will allow for adjusting the position of the new door jamb for a plumb fit.

With the framing exposed, determine which studs will be cut to allow for the new opening. Choose an existing stud to serve as one of the king studs for the new frame and determine if it is necessary to install a new one on the opposite side, or if an existing stud can be shimmed to do the job.

Locate the King Studs

To find the location for the second king stud, add the measurement of the jamb width (included in the packaging for pre-hung doors) plus 3 inches for jack studs and 1 inch for wiggle room. Measure from the inside of the first king stud and mark this point on the soleplate. Keep this measurement and use it to cut the header length in the next phase of the framing.

If an existing wall stud falls at, or very near this mark it can be shimmed and used for the second king stud. But if another stud doesn't already exist where the second king stud should be, one will have to be added. Using the next existing wall stud, measure to the mark on the soleplate and subtract 1½ inches for the thickness of the new king stud. Cut 2 or 3 pieces of 2x4 to this length and use them as spacers to attach and stabilize the new stud.

Shimming a Door Frame

If the stud you want to use for the second king stud is too close to the mark on the soleplate to use 2x4 spacers, as above, you can shim it with boards of the appropriate thickness to build it out. For instance, to build out the frame by one inch, stack 2 pieces of 1/2 plywood and then nail the jack stud to the plywood shims.

If the distance is 1½ inch or a bit more, stack the new king stud with the existing stud and use thin plywood spacers and shim wedges to build it out to the proper position. The final location of the new king stud can vary slightly, but try to get within 1/8 inch of the mark for the best results.

Measure from the wall top plate to the soleplate and cut a new 2x4 king stud to this length. Install it by driving screws or nails at an angle into the existing framing. If you cut the existing studs to serve as cripple studs, this "toenailing" can be done inside the wall cavity with a pneumatic nail gun small enough to squeeze into this space. Otherwise, using 3 inch screws and a drill/driver equipped with an extra long bit is a better choice for toenailing here, and screws have the added advantage of being removable in case of error in placement.

Before installing the new stud, use a drill/driver to fasten the spacers to the existing stud, at regular intervals, toenailing them in place. Start the screws in the spacers before holding them against the stud. Set the spacers in place and squeeze the drill/driver between the walls to finish driving the screws home.

Start the screws at the top and bottom of the new king stud, and then set it in place so it sits square against the spacers. Drive a screw through the new stud and into each one of the spacers. Make sure it is aligned with the mark on the soleplate and drive the bottom screw home. Make sure the stud is plumb and squeeze the driver between the walls to drive the top screw into the top plate. Finally, drive a second screw at the top, bottom, and at each spacer to stabilize the new stud.

To continue the new door framing go to the Cutting Studs and Building the Header, Installing Jack Studs and Cutting a Soleplate and Framing a Window pages of this article.