Framing Doors and Windows Page 2

Shimming an Existing Stud

If the stud you want to use to support the second king stud is too close to the mark on the sole plate to use 2x4 spacers as described on the previous page, shim it with a board of the appropriate size to build it out.

If the distance is smaller than an inch and a half, which can be filled nicely with a 2x4, use a smaller board or stack a combination of boards to build up the space needed. For example, if the location for the new frame is 1 inch from the existing stud, stack half inch plywood to build up the space. Nail the jack studs to the plywood shims.

If the distance is just a little more than 1½ inches, use plywood spacers between the new 2x4 and the wall stud to build out the frame. The final position of the shimmed framing can vary by about 1|8 inch if necessary but try to get as close to the mark as possible for the best results.

Cut and Remove the Wall Studs

Measure and mark the studs to be removed for a new door measuring from the finished floor. To find the measurement for the cripple studs, add the header size and the jamb height, plus ½inch wiggle room. With this measurement in hand decide if the existing studs should be cut to form the cripple studs or if it would be better to remove the studs completely and add new cripple studs to build the new frame. Removing the studs completely will probably damage the wall finish and possibly the adjacent ceiling. Using the existing studs to form the new cripple studs will require removing the plaster or drywall to the top of the new header and cutting a straight line across the stud.

To cut the existing studs to serve as the new cripple studs, mark both faces and the edge measuring from the wall top plate to the top of the new header. Use a square to draw a straight line and cut along the marks with a handsaw keeping the cut as straight as possible. Making a smooth, square cut here will ensure a good, flush fit against the new header.

Avoid binding of the saw blade while cutting by using 2x4's to support the wall load. Leave the supports in place when making an opening in a load bearing wall until all the new framing has been installed.

To remove the studs completely and install new cripple studs, cut roughly mid–way down using a reciprocating saw and then pry the two pieces of 2x4 free from the sole and top plates. Be careful when prying the framing to avoid pulling the plaster or drywall free along with the stud. Cut any nails holding the wall material by slipping the blade of a reciprocating saw or a hacksaw between the plaster and framing. This may help to preserve the plaster or drywall and avoid extra work later to repair it.

After the necessary studs have been removed, measure from the top header mark to the wall top plate to get the length of the new cripple studs. Add one new cripple stud for every 3 feet or less of opening space.

Build the Header

The size of the header will vary depending on the size of the new window or door opening. For example, for openings up to 3 feet wide, 2x4's may be used to build the header; for openings up to 5 feet, 2x6's should be used; over 5 feet, use 2x8's.

The stated size is not the actual size when dealing with lumber. 2x4's are actually 1½in. thick and 3½in. wide. Use the actual size of the header when measuring and cutting the wall framing.

Build the header using two pieces of 2by lumber of the appropriate size. Cut the lumber to length adding the width of the jamb, plus 1 inch wiggle room and 3 inches for jack studs. Nail the two pieces together, with ½in. plywood of the same dimensions, sandwiched between them. This creates a header the same thickness as the 2x4 wall framing. This assumes framing lumber of nominal size. Older houses will have framing that is actual size, always measure your framing to be sure.

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