DIY Cut Studs and Build a Header

Remove the Wall Studs

With the wall covering removed, there are two choices for removing the existing wall studs. The studs that fall within the new opening can be cut to form the required cripple studs, or all existing framing can be removed and new cripple studs added.

Saving the studs may be the easiest way, but both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. Removing the studs completely will mean an easier cutting job, but require additional framing, toenailing and wall repair. Using the existing studs to form the cripple studs can make repairing the wall finish easier, but cutting them off straight can be difficult.

Measuring and Cutting

To find the measurement for the cripple studs, add the header size and the jamb height, plus ½ inch wiggle room. With this measurement in hand decide if the existing studs should be cut to form the cripple studs or if it would be better to remove them completely. Removing the studs completely will probably damage the wall finish and possibly the adjacent ceiling. Using the existing studs to form the new cripple studs will require removing the plaster or drywall to the top of the new header and cutting a straight line across the stud.

To cut the existing studs and use them to serve as the new cripple studs, measuring from the finished floor and mark both faces and the edge. Use a square to draw a straight line and cut along the marks with a handsaw, keeping the cut as straight as possible. Making a smooth, square cut here will ensure a good, flush fit against the new header. To avoid binding of the saw blade while cutting use 2x4's to support the wall load, especially when working with a load bearing wall.

If you want to remove the studs completely and install new cripple studs, cut roughly mid–way down using a reciprocating saw and then pry the two pieces of 2x4 free from the top and soleplate. Be careful when prying the framing to avoid pulling the plaster or drywall off the ceiling along with the stud. After the necessary studs have been removed, measure from the top of the header to the bottom of the top plate to get the length of the new cripple studs. Add one new cripple stud for every 3 feet or less of opening space.

Building the Header

The size of the header will vary depending on the size of the new window or door opening. For example, for openings up to 3 feet wide, 2x4's may be used to build the header; for openings up to 5 feet, 2x6's should be used; over 5 feet, use 2x8's.

The stated size is not the actual size when dealing with lumber. 2x4's are actually 1½in. thick and 3½in. wide. Use the actual size of the header when measuring and cutting the wall framing.

Build the header using two pieces of 2by lumber of the appropriate size. Cut the lumber to length adding the width of the jamb, plus 1 inch wiggle room and 3 inches for jack studs. Nail the two pieces together, with ½in. plywood of the same dimensions, sandwiched between them. This creates a header the same thickness as the 2x4 wall framing. This assumes framing lumber of nominal size. Older houses will have framing that is actual size, always measure your framing to be sure.

Go to the Framing Doors and Installing a King Stud, Installing Jack Studs and Cutting a Soleplate or Framing a Window pages of this article.