This page contains a guide to hand and power tools that will help make home repairs and improvement projects easier and more successful. We refer to these in many of the articles on this website and provide this information for those unfamiliar with these tools.
Also called a plate joiner. A specialty tool designed for making mortise & tenon joints in woodworking projects. Specially manufactured, football-shaped wood "biscuits" fit into the mortises created with this tool. Wood glue is placed into the mortise along with a biscuit, and as the two pieces are joined, the biscuit swells as it absorbs glue, forming a very tight union. The joiner can be set at varying depths to accept different sized biscuits from about 1½in. to about 2½in. long.
Make fast crosscuts for framing projects like building walls. Use a square to mark the cut line with a pencil first. Some practice is needed to develop accuracy. Use a fence attachment to make rough rip cuts.
Check for both level and plumb framing when remodeling and building walls. Make a level installation of shelves, cabinets and other wall fixtures. Essential for professional quality work.
An air compressor with a regulator is required for this tool. Drive nails and stables instantly. For big framing projects this tool makes the job quick and easy. For fine work like molding installation a pneumatic nail gun drives brads and sinks them without marring the wood surface.
Like a table saw in reverse. The blade moves to make the cut rather than moving the wood. Capable of all the same functions as a table saw, i.e. ripping, cross cutting, dados, rabbets, etc. Extreme caution should be used when operating this saw as it tends to pull into the operator. Available in both bench and floor models.
Sands in all directions for a consistently smooth finish. Keep the sander moving at all times to avoid leaving gouges in the wood. Also a good choice for auto body finishing.
Make quick, rough cuts of plaster lath, wood and metal framing to demo walls. Metal and wood cutting blades are available for this saw ranging from 4 to about 12 inches. To demo walls, drill a pilot hole first to allow for inserting the blade and then begin cutting. Press the base of the saw firmly against the surface you're cutting while operating the saw and watch for the tip of the blade hitting nearby surfaces as it moves in and out.
Cut curving lines to make circles and other shapes for decorative wood projects. Also called a jig saw.
Essential for cutting plywood for cabinet making. Make accurate rips, crosscuts, dados, rabbets and lap joints. Use jig attachments to make almost any cut for furniture making. Available in both bench and floor models.
This tool uses mechanized rollers to propel the wood through the planer automatically. Plane a smooth surface on lumber up to the thickness capacity of the planer. Glue several thin boards together and plane them down to make furniture legs, etc.
A wood router is a very versatile tool for cutting and shaping wood. With a high speed (20,000 to 28,000 rpm) wood router, a few carbide tipped router bits and some specialty and shop-made jigs you have a tool that will cut almost any wood working joint.
Cut dados, rabbets, dovetails, tongue and groove and mortise and tenon joints, as well as, decorative shapes in wood for handmade molding and signs. In fact, many of the jobs in the wood shop can be done with a well accessorized router.
Portable wood routers include plunge and fixed base (pictured) types. A plunge router allows for setting the router base on the wood to be cut before engaging the bit. This enables more control of the router, minimizing the kick-back effect that occurs as the high speed bit hits the wood.
A plunge router is a must to cut handmade signs and other cut-out jobs. A fixed base router may be more rigid but it is fixed, meaning there's no need to keep the bit engaged in the wood manually which can be difficult at times. The base position of the fixed model is adjustable for varying depth of cut. A dial system with a scale attached is used to set the depth accurately.
Router bits are locked into the tool by threading a nut over a collet, forcing it to tighten around the bit shaft. Collet sizes are usually 1|4, 1|2 or 3|8 inches although some routers have adapters for more than one. Choose router bits with shafts that match the collet size of the router.
Accessories for tapping the full range of router capabilities are seemingly endless. Many shop-made tools and jigs have been devised for use with a portable router. Probably the most useful is the router table.
A router table is built by mounting the router upside down under the table top so that the bit extends through a hole in the center. With this configuration the router cuts from the bottom of the wood like a shaper. The addition of a fence to aid in guiding wood work makes the router table complete. When using large bits such as the ones available for cutting raised panel doors, a router table is a must.
This page offers an overview of the features and capabilities of a compound miter saw. For help with cutting crown molding angles and installation see Installing Crown Molding.
A compound miter saw will make many wood cutting jobs for construction framing and woodworking projects quick, accurate and easy. With miter adjustments ranging from 45 degrees to both left and right and bevel adjustments of the same, in one or both directions, just about any wood framing joint can be cut with extreme accuracy.
From the center position miter angles of 90 down to 45 degrees are possible. Using the center position as 0 degrees, all angles up to 45 degrees are possible. Add the blade bevel function and these angles can be cut in two directions at once. With this versatility the user is able to cut square joints for wall framing, mitered joints for picture frames and compound mitered joints for installing crown molding, as well as less demanding wood cutting jobs, with professional results.
The size of the blade will determine saw capacity (size of wood that can be cut). To cut small crown moldings and most other trim carpentry jobs a 10 inch compound miter saw will serve well. A 12 inch saw will cut larger crown moldings as well as most other wood projects. Use the larger saw if you foresee cutting a lot of wide boards or large timbers such as 4x4's. This may be true when cutting fence posts or wide boards for planters and similar projects. It's always better to buy the best and largest saw you can afford and grow into it rather than needing a better saw as your skills improve and projects expand.
Compound miter saws are equipped with a fence and table for keeping the wood stationary while cutting. The table pivots left and right to make miter cuts in both directions. Use the miter feature alone to make cuts for joining two pieces of wood to form any flat, angled joint needed for a given project. Simple projects such as shoe molding installation or building window and door frames can be done using the miter feature alone. The miter feature combined with the bevel feature allow the user to make more complicated wood joints.
Saws are available with single-bevel or double-bevel capability. A double bevel feature makes for fewer blade adjustments and allows for some angles of cut, not possible with only one bevel direction. The bevel feature in combination with the miter feature are what make cutting compound miter joints possible with this saw.
The bevel feature allows the blade to tilt either in one direction for a single-beveled saw or in both directions for a double-beveled saw. Setting the blade bevel to the proper position and then setting the miter position, allows one to cut the compound miter joints needed to join crown molding and for making frames or boxes with slanted sides as with some ornate portrait frames.
Compound miter saws feature a blade guard. This covers the saw blade when ever it is in the raised position. As the blade is lowered the guard swings up through a spring loaded mechanism on the back, exposing the blade. Small slits in the blade guard allow the user to see the teeth as the blade is lowered. This allows one to line the blade up with the cut line before engaging the motor. When the switch is depressed the blade spins away from the user. As the blade is lowered into the work piece the guard swing up and the wood is cut. When the user raises the blade to finish the cut the guard swings down to cover the blade again.
Most saws are equipped with an automatic brake that stops the blade quickly after the switch is released. A dust bag which attaches to the rear of the saw will catch most of the sawdust produced or a vacuum hose is easily connected to the dust spout for better dust collection. A clamp accessory may be available to hold work firmly against the fence and table while cutting. These may be more trouble than they're worth for most jobs but if small pieces of wood will be cut, a clamp should be used to avoid putting hands too close to the blade.
Other accessories include an adjustable stop for making multiple cuts of the same length. An extension attachment is available for supporting long boards although a shop-made support will do the same job when attached to the workbench next to the saw. A portable saw stand may be needed to support the saw and lumber for projects away from the shop.
For storage and transporting, the saw the blade assembly is held in the down position by a lock down pin. There is a handle on top of the saw for lifting and carrying. A wrench for changing blades is included and is tucked under the saw table for storage and easy access.
After many years of use the motor brushes may need replacement as they are worn down by the spinning armature. Replacement brushes are available from the manufacturer and are easy to install. With new brushes the saw is ready for many more years of service.
When possible a carbide tipped saw blade should be used with the saw. A good carbide blade will last through years of woodworking projects. While they are a bit expensive compared to basic steel blades they last many times over and can be re-sharpened. Use a fine saw blades with about 60 or more teeth to make smooth cuts in hard woods like oak and maple. If you're cutting lumber for wall framing and similar construction projects a blade with fewer teeth, 20 to 40, will do a nice job.
A drill press is indispensable for projects requiring multiple, accurately bored holes but it will also make many drilling job much easier. Use a drill press to bore holes at an angle or at any depth. The attached table tilts, in both directions in some cases and has a scale for setting precise angles from 90 to nearly 0 degrees.
A stop adjustment on the bit spindle allows for adjusting the stroke of the bit to stop at any desired depth. Add jigs to the drill press to use it as a mortising tool, drum sander or polisher. Both bench and floor models are available with the bench models being more affordable.
The drive system of the drill press consists of a motor, a pulley system, a spindle shaft and an adjustable chuck. Work is drilled from above by lowering a spinning bit in a smooth, controlled, perfectly straight stroke. A recoil spring pulls the spindle shaft back to start again when handle pressure is released.
The stroke of the drill press (the distance the bit head will travel up and down) is adjustable so a specific depth can be set. The drill press motor is mounted at the back of the tool. Attached to the motor shaft are various sized pulleys (a stack of at least three for 3 speeds). A drive belt, similar to a car fan belt, is used to transfer the motor torque to a second set of pulleys attached to the spindle shaft which is attached to the drill chuck. The drill chuck holds and spins the bits and other attachments.
The pulleys are reversed at both points so that the bottom pulley on the motor is the smallest of the set and the bottom pulley on the chuck is the largest of that set. With this arrangement, the drill speed can be varied by moving the belt up and down between the pulleys, with the slowest speed being at the bottom and the fastest speed being at the top of the pulley stack.
The number of speeds a drill press has depends on the number of pairs of pulleys. Adjusting the speeds requires releasing tension on the motor and retightening after moving the belt, fortunately, the drill press is engineered to make shifting the motor simple and easy. With several different speeds it's possible to drill nearly any material and any size hole.
A 5 speed drill press is versatile enough for most jobs. Use low drill speeds for boring holes in metal, ceramics and plastic and for starting screws or using large attachment. Also use low speeds when high torque is needed and whenever boring large holes or holes in hard materials. Use high speeds for soft materials like wood and whenever using small drill bits. High speeds should also be used for sanding and polishing attachments.
A cordless drill/driver can make short work of most fastening jobs. And the quick bit changes possible with a keyless chuck shave tons of time off of any project that requires boring holes and driving screws. With a keyless chuck, an eighth inch drill bit and a phillips/slotted screw driver bit, installing curtain rods, towel bars, door and window hardware, cabinets or just about any installation requiring pilot holes and screw fasteners, is suddenly quick and easy.
A basic 9.6 volt cordless drill/driver, starting at around $100.00, is more than adequate for any task around the house and even tougher jobs like hanging drywall and remodeling projects.
Virtually all cordless drill/drivers include a variable clutch, usually with at least a dozen settings. The clutch disengages the drive motor at a preset torque level. Set the clutch by turning the collar just behind the chuck. A graduated scale on the collar allows for precise torque settings every time. Use this feature for countersinking screws in wood or drywall. Avoid stripping brass screw heads and other delicate fasteners by setting the clutch to disengage before any damage is done. A setting at the end of the clutch scale allows for instant switching from clutch control to full torque for boring holes.
A ratcheting keyless chuck is a standard feature for most cordless drill/drivers. The chuck consist of a collar that turns to tighten a metal sleeve around a drill bit shank. The collar can be turned by hand to loosen and tighten the chuck, eliminating the need for a chuck wrench. The ratchet feature keeps the chuck tight around the shank for less slipping as the bit meets resistance.
Chuck size will be either three eighths or half inch for most cordless drills. A 3|8's chuck may limit the choices for drill bits and other attachments although many attachments will have a reduced shank to fit the smaller chuck.
Variable speeds are another standard feature on these drill/drivers. Speed is varied by depressing the trigger switch to varying degrees. Usually there will be two speed settings averaging 0-400rpms and 0-1,400rpms. A slide switch on the back or side of the tool switches between the two.
Use low drill speeds for boring holes in metal, ceramics and plastic and for starting screws or using large attachment. Also use low speeds when high torque is needed and whenever boring large holes or holes in hard materials. Use high speeds for soft materials like wood and whenever using small drill bits. High speeds should also be used for sanding and polishing attachments.
Although variable speeds are a standard feature, drill manufacturers recommend limiting the use of low speeds for extend periods because of the heat build-up in the motor which will shorten tool life.
Torque ratings for NiCd and NiMH powered drill/drivers start at about 200in.-lbs. for a 12 volt tool and up to about 500in.-lbs. for the larger models. All these drill/drivers are reversible to spin clockwise and counter-clockwise. Use the reverse direction to remove screws and for backing a drill bit out of a jamb. This can be a life saver for small bits that can break easily when binding becomes a problem.
Choose the smaller 9.6 to 12 volt model drill/driver for most do-it-yourself and home uses. A cordless tool of this size will have a 3|8's chuck and can handle most requirements around the house. Drive 3 inch screws and bore holes in 2x4's easily. Hanging drywall will be no problem for this tool.
The next step up the power scale is the mid-range 14 or 15 volt model. These larger models may have a 3|8 or 1|2 inch chuck. These will hold their own on most construction jobs. With increased torque over the smaller drill, drilling through framing and concrete, driving long screws and other more difficult tasks are made easy.
High torque, 18volt cordless drill/drivers and hammer drills are the top of the heap when it comes to power for NiCd and NiMH powered tools. Chuck size for these tools is half inch as opposed to the three eighths of the smaller sized models. These tools are the best choice for serious construction projects where boring large holes and driving lots of screws is typical.
Weight and balance should be a consideration when choosing a cordless drill/driver. Because of the weight of the battery packs for these tools the design and placement of the power source will have an impact on ease of handling. Hand fatigue can become a problem if the battery weight pulls on the user. Most manufacturers deal with this problem well using the battery weight to counter the weight of the motor and other drill parts.
Look for a battery pack that is streamlined in design to avoid problems when working in tight spaces. Most manufacturers consider this issue in their tool design, however a large 18 volt drill/driver may require a battery pack that is simply too large for tight spaces.
It can be very helpful to have a compact 9.6 or 12 volt model in addition the larger one if you plan to do many and various projects using your cordless drill/driver.
A portable belt sander can make short work of tough sanding jobs. The most aggressive of hand sanders, a belt sander can be used to remove paint or sand down a wood surface very quickly. If you've never used a belt sander, practice on a scrape surface of wood before using it on the work surface. Use caution whenever operating a belt sander to avoid accidental damage.
Two sizes of belt sanders are commonly available for home use, 3x18 inches and 3x21 inches. The first number is the width of the belt; the second is the length. Most belt sanders will have a dust collection bag attachment. Because the sander will remove a lot of material quickly, dust will be a serious problem if no collection bag is installed.
Install belts on the sander by loosening the tension on the pulley and slipping the belt over the end. An arrow on the back of the belt indicates the direction of travel. When installing a new belt you will probably need to adjust it so it doesn't rub against the housing. To do this install a new belt and hold the sander out while depressing the switch. With the sander running adjust the tracking knob in small increments until the belt runs centered on the rollers.
To operate the sander, hold it with two hands, one on each handle. Start the tool before engaging the work surface. Place the spinning belt onto the work surface, heel first and then drop the front of the sander down, in one smooth motion.
Move the sander in short, straight, back and forth strokes keeping it in motion at all times. Move across the surface one row at a time. Don't swirl the sander or drag it side to side as this will dig into the surface. Lightly shift position to sand a new row.
Use coarse, 60 or 80, grit sanding belt to remove a lot of material quickly such as when sanding down a sticking door or stripping paint. Use a lighter paper such as 120 or 150 grit to sand a smooth finish for staining or re-painting.
There are currently three choices when it comes to battery packs for cordless power tools. The first and most widely used is the Nickel-Cadmium (NiCd) battery. The second not as widely available is the Nickel-Metal-Hydride (NiMH) battery and the newest rechargeable batteries on the market, the Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) battery.
NiCd and NiMH battery packs supply voltages from 2.4 to 18 volts and have been used for some time to power cordless tools like drill/drivers, reciprocating saws and small circular saws. Li-Ion batteries are a new development in cordless tool batteries that can supply higher voltages, currently up to 36 volts for DeWalt tools. Higher voltage translates to higher torque making it possible to build cordless power tools that rival or surpass the performance of most corded power tools.
Battery packs for cordless tools are built using several individual cells wired together in a series, similar to an electronic device where 2 or more AA or AAA batteries are joined together to supply the needed voltage.
Adding the voltage of each cell, many voltage levels can be achieved. Individual NiCd and NiMH cells supply 1.2 volts each. Ten of these cells wired together make a 12 volt battery pack (10x1.2=12). Eight cells make a 9.6 volt pack, 12 make 14.4 volts, etc.
NiCd and NiMH power tool battery packs are limited to about 18 volts due to the cumulative weight of the cells. The 15 cells required for an 18 volt NiCd/NiMH battery pack is about the limit for manageable tool weight. Li-ion batteries are changing all that. Because lithium is much lighter than NiCd and NiMH the cells are much lighter, allowing for more cells in a battery pack. This translates to higher voltages and more torque for cordless power tools. Li-ion cells supply 3.6 volts each. Ten of these cells wired together provide 36 volts which is the maximum Li-ion battery pack currently available.
At first glance it would seem that Li-ion batteries will make NiCd and NiMH batteries obsolete but that's not the case. First, the cost of a Li-ion powered tool is about twice that of the NiCd and NiMH counterparts, an unnecessary expense for most people.
Second, the extra torque possible with higher voltages is rarely needed by the average user. NiCd and NiMH battery packs can deliver more than adequate power for most purposes. Li-ion powered tools are intended for heavy construction work where, up until now, builders have been tethered by corded tools when real power is needed.
NiCd and to a lesser extent NiMH batteries can suffer from memory effect due to repeated discharge/recharge cycles at the same level each time. This creates a sudden voltage drop each time the battery reaches that level. This is a common problem with cell phones and other electronic devices that are operated for the same period of time repeatedly. Because power tools are operated at various levels through out the discharge period, memory effect is not usually a problem. Some chargers have an equalizing mode that reconditions batteries that have developed memory effect.
Another effect found with NiCd batteries known as "lazy battery effect", occurs with repeated overcharging. This effect is evident when the battery is removed from the charger fully charged but discharges quickly after brief use. This effect can be reversed with repeated deep discharge cycles. The charger maintenance cycle will recondition batteries with this problem.
All rechargeable battery packs for cordless tools have special charging needs. The charger that comes with the tool should have functions to control temperature, charging speed and maintenance of the charge level. One hour chargers are the standard for most makers, however 15 minute chargers and 12 volt automobile chargers are also commonly available. Ambient temperatures should remain between 40° and 105°F while charging NiCd and NiMH batteries, otherwise battery life can be reduced.
Below is a comparison chart for the three types of cordless tool battery packs.
It is the responsibility of the user of this information to know and understand the NEC (National Electrical Code) as it applies to them, as well as any local regulations or laws that may pertain. While many jurisdictions do adopt the standards of the NEC, some may have requirements in addition to, or exemptions from those standards. The information on this page is intended to aid in electrical wiring projects that become necessary when doing DIY home improvements and repairs. We cannot assume responsibility for personal injury or property damage as a result of using the information provided here.
Short for ampere, a unit of measure for current. The amp rating for a device or cable determines the amount of current it can safely handle. Household circuits begin at 15 amps and go up to about 50 or 60 amps.
Electric cable with spiral metal sheathing. Early armored cable, BX cable, carried two electric wires with no ground. The metal sheath served as the ground. Later versions carried an aluminum ground wire wound in the spiral. Newer armored cable includes an insulated ground wire.
A long copper bar inside a service panel or breaker box. All neutral and ground wires are attached to a ground bus bar to complete the electrical path. In some cases a service panel may have separate bus bars for neutral and ground.
See Armored Cable.
Two or more wires housed in a sheath. Romex, NM and BX are all names for household electrical cable. The gauge of the wire inside the cable will vary. Standard household electrical cable in the U.S. ranges from 14 awg (american wire gauge) to 6 awg, with 14 having the smallest copper conductor and 6 the largest. 14 gauge wire is used for 15 amp circuits, 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits, 10 awg for 30 amps, 8 awg for 40amps and 6 awg for 50 and 60 amp circuits.
Most 10 gauge down to 6 gauge cable available from home stores will have 4 conductors; 3 for carrying electricity and 1 for ground. The smaller 14 and 12 gauge cables are available with 3 or 4 conductors. The three conductor cables are referred to as 14/2 and 12/2. This means there are two wires that carry electricity and one ground. 14/3 and 12/3 cable, used for wiring 3-way and 4-way light switches, has three conductors and one ground. 12/3 cable may also be used for 240 volt 20amp circuits such as those used for heavy duty air conditioners.
A heavy duty circuit switch located in the service panel designed to instantly shut off electricity if an overload or short occurs. Circuit breakers are rated for the amount of current they can carry. 15 amp circuit breakers are used with 14 gauge cable for general purpose lighting and receptacle circuits. 20 amp breakers are used with 12 gauge cable for heavier loads such as refrigerators and dishwashers. 30 amp breakers are used with 10 gauge wire for electric dryers and kitchen ranges. A large kitchen range or heat pump will require a 40 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire. In addition to these, 50 and 60 amp breakers may be found wiring a very heavy load such as a large hot tub. For these 6 gauge wire should be used.
A channel through which an electrical cable is run to protect or conceal it. Conduits come in metal which is attached to walls and ceiling with screws and brackets. Or plastic conduit is available for easier installation with two-sided tape to stick it to walls and ceilings.
The uninterrupted path of electricity. A wire from one end to another has continuity install a switch between the two end and turn it off to break the path and interrupt the continuity.
A wall outlet box that houses two fixtures side by side as with two wall switches at a door.
A wall outlet with two receptacles. These are available rated for 15 and 20 amps.
A rigid, flat metal tape used to run electrical cable through an existing wall or ceiling. The rigid nature of the tape makes it possible to push it past most obstructions in the wall cavity by turning the reel to either side. See Run New Wiring for more about fishing cable.
A copper strip designed to melt and separate, to stop the flow of electricity if a preset current rate is exceeded.
Flexible metal conduit for running new electric wiring. Resembles armored cable listed above.
A wall receptacle with a built-in circuit breaker used in bathrooms, kitchens and other wet spots to instantly disconnect the circuit in case of a short. Special GFCI circuit breakers are also available for extra safety when installing hot tubs and other circuits used in damp or wet locations.
An electrical outlet box containing a cable splice and covered to protect the connection.
Essential for cutting thick cables. Also use these pliers to twist wires together for splicing.
Test for continuity, voltage, current and resistance. Both analog and digital meters are available. A digital meter is simple to use, easy to read and inexpensive. Analog meters are not as easy use or read and are becoming obsolete.
Handy for tight spaces. Bend wires into a hook when connecting them to outlets, fixtures and switches.
(Non-metallic cable) Household electric cable with a plastic sheath.
An outlet box with built-in clamps to fasten it to drywall or plaster. All that is needed to install this box is to cut a hole in the hollow part of a wall. These can be used in drywall, plaster or paneling. Best suited for wall outlets. Because they don't offer much support old work boxes are not a good choice for installing a new ceiling fixture.
Any of a number of sized and shaped boxes used to house electrical fixtures like switches, receptacles and light fixtures. They are normally installed by nailing to studs and joists and are available in metal and plastic.
A plug-in device that will detect the wiring configuration of an electrical outlet. Thru a system of lights this tester will confirm a receptacle is properly wired as well as indicate a problem with the wiring and what the problem is. This is important for polarized, grounded receptacles that can be improperly wired and still power a lamp or other simple test device.
A brand name for NM cable.
A breaker or fuse box. Electricity enters the household circuitry through the service panel and is distributed from there through circuit breakers or fuses.
A two wire cable run from a light fixture to a switch on a wall. Its only function is to control the on and off state of the fixture.
Use these to cut cable and wire. Use lineman pliers to cut NM and other thick cables.
Remove insulation from wire without damaging the copper conductor. Most strippers have a cutting notch for wire gauges from #10 to #18. Most wire strippers will also have a cutting edge for quick cuts of individual wires. Use lineman pliers to cut NM and other thick cables.
Adhesives work in one of two ways: by welding or hardening. Welding adhesives dissolve the two surfaces to be joined and solidifying them into one piece. PVC cement is one example of a welding adhesive. Hardening adhesives stick to and/or soak into material fibers, then harden into one solid mass to hold two surfaces together. Most common household adhesives work by hardening.
This page offers a list of household and shop adhesives. Descriptions, surfaces best suited and adhesive characteristics are included in each listing as well as solvents to use for clean-up of wet adhesive.
Used for bonding wood in furniture making. Dries in about an hour. Allow to set for about 3 hours before stressing the joint. Titebond® and Elmer's® Carpenter's wood glues are two you will find at home centers. This is a very strong, waterproof adhesive for structural bonding of wood and furniture. This adhesive is not flammable but is mildly toxic. Solvent: water.
Used to bond wood, fabric, paper, glass, cork, felt, formica and laminates. Apply to both surfaces and let the cement dry before joining the two. Dries in 30 to 60 minutes. Comes in 5, 2 and 1 gallon as well as quarts and smaller sizes. 3M® makes a spray form "Super 77" that is handy for quick applications. This is a strong adhesive and is waterproof. Contact cement is flammable and toxic. Solvent: paint thinner or acetone. Use with plenty ventilation, extinguish pilot lights and don't allow smoking in the vicinity when working with contact cement.
Used for wood bonding. Dries in about 24 hours. This glue is made using a protein found in milk, mixed with an alkaline solvent. It is not used much today but was used in the past to bond wood. Apply with a brush. This is a very strong adhesive when not exposed to water. Casein glue is not waterproof, toxic or flammable. Solvent: water.
Use for non-porous surfaces such as metal, rubber, plastic, ceramics and glass. Apply sparingly to one surface and join the two surfaces immediately. Dries instantly. Hold the union for 10 to 30 seconds. Allow to dry for about 12 hours before stressing the new joint. Super Glue and Krazy Glue are two well known brands of cyanoacrylate glue. This is a very strong adhesive and is water-resistant. Cyanoacrylate is flammable and toxic. Solvent: acetone.
Used to bond virtually any surface. Mix two parts, the resin and the hardener in equal portions. Setting time can be from a few minutes to a few hours depend on the type of epoxy. Some special epoxies are available for special surfaces such as fiberglass showers and tubs.
Used to bond wood. Also used for crackled paint faux finishing. Once the only glue available for woodworking, it has been replaced by aliphatic and resorcinol resins for use as wood glue. Dries in about 6 hours. This is a strong adhesive. It is not toxic or waterproof. Solvent: water.
Used to bond wood, metal, leather, fabrics and plastics. Well suited for hobbies and crafts. A heat gun melts glue sticks. Glue hardens as it cools. This is a strong adhesive if a construction grade is used. If the smaller, craft grade is used, some joints can be broken easily as the glue separates from the surface. This adhesive is waterproof and non-toxic. Solvent: Denatured alcohol or heat.
Bonds floor and wall tiles as well as gypsum board and plywood for construction. Also works to bond concrete, asphalt, leather, fabric and other common household materials so try this adhesive for repairs all around the house. Both water and resin based types are available. Quarts and gallons containers are available as well as tubes that fit a caulk gun for easy application. Sets in about 10 minutes to a couple of hours depending on the type used. Will cure in most cases in 24 hours. This is a strong adhesive and most are waterproof. Mastics may be flammable while wet and emit toxic fumes. Solvent: Resin mastic will clean-up with mineral spirits. Use water to clean up water-based mastic.
Used to set bricks, cinder block and some stone floor tiles. A mixture of portland cement and fine sand, when mixed with water mortar will set in about 30 minutes and cure in 6 months. Mortar is very strong, non-flammable and non-toxic when mixed with water. Solvent: water while wet.
Used to bond wood, paper, ceramics and most other household surfaces. Dries in 30 to 60 minutes. Sometimes called school glue because it is frequently used by elementary school kids. Elmer's® is a familiar brand in the U.S. This is a very strong adhesive but it is not waterproof. White Glue is not flammable or toxic. Solvent: water.
Use to join pvc plumbing pipe as well as other plastics. Use a primer to clean contaminants from surfaces to be joined before applying the adhesive. Coat both surfaces and hold union until set, 30 to 60 seconds. Cures in 4 to 30 hours depending on the size on the pipe joined and the temperature. Pint and half pint sizes are commonly available. This is a very strong adhesive. PVC cement is flammable and toxic when wet. Solvent: acetone.
Used for bonding wood when a waterproof joint is required such as with outdoor wood furniture and boat building. Dries in 2 to 12 hours; allow 24 hours before exposing to water. This is a two part compound that is mixed before using. This is a very strong adhesive, it is waterproof and non-flammable. Solvent: water.
Well suited for bonding paper for art projects. Also good for temporary bond on virtually any surface from ceramics to plastics. Available as a spray adhesive or liquid applied with a brush. Dries in 10 to 15 minutes. This is a relatively weak adhesive. Not for structural bonds. Rubber cement is flammable and toxic. Solvent: rubber cement thinner or acetone. Use with ventilation.
Used to bond glass, metal, pottery, porcelain and most other surfaces. Used to caulk fiberglass and porcelain sinks, tubs and showers. Dries in about 24 hours. This is a strong adhesive. It is waterproof, flammable and toxic. Solvent: Denatured Alcohol.