Home Repair Guidewww.do-it-yourself-help.comAugust 2007 | ||
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Use WD-40 for more than SqueaksOne of the most useful products you can keep around the house is WD-40 (Water–Displacer #40). It's available in small 3oz. spray cans that will last for years for most households. WD-40 is good for lots of cleaning situations, from adhesive to paint removal. For instance, use it to dissolve chewing gum in hair or remove tree sap from clothes and skin. Safely clean stubborn price tag adhesive from any surface that can be washed with soap and water. Try it as a milder solvent in most situation where mineral spirits or another solvent would otherwise be required. Spray–on Faux FinishesSpray–on hammered metal finishes are a quick, easy way to take care of a rusted metal problem. These paints create a pretty convincing metal finish and don't require much prep. Both Krylon® and RustOleum® make faux finishes in spray form. These paints are intended to go right over a degraded (rusted and pitted) metal finish. They don't require a primer and will help to control rust. While these paints may be intended for metal they can also be used for just about any surface where you want an understated, attractive, metal finish. Other simulated or faux finishes from a spray can: stone, frosted glass, suede, stained glass, mirror, pewter and rust. Repair Rotted Wood
Wood, especially exterior wood trim molding, can become saturated with water and rot in isolated spots. To save the cost and work of replacement try to repair this damage with a car body filler like Bondo®. This is a two part putty which when mixed, will set to a rock–hard patch. Before you start make sure the wood is completely dry. Start the repair by digging all soft, rotted wood from the affected area. Remove all debris and saturate the edges of the damaged area with a prime/sealer and let it dry for an hour or more. Build a form around the damaged area using small pieces of thin plywood or similar material. Mix enough Bondo to fill the patch area following the label directions. Once the filler is mixed, work quickly to fill the patch before it can set. For deep fills pour the putty and float it out with a putty knife or similar tool. For shallow areas use a putty knife to "butter" the filler into the damaged wood. On vertical surfaces the filler will run off and must be held in place with a piece of plywood. It sets in a few minutes so it is possible to hold the mold in place with your hand if necessary. As soon as the filler has set, remove the form and use a paint scraper or heavy 80 grit sandpaper to remove any excess and shape it into the surrounding surface. Use a sanding block to keep trim molding surfaces flat and square. After the excess filler is cut down, smooth the surface with a finer sandpaper such as medium 120 grit. This must be done in the first few minutes. After that the filler will become too hard to sand by hand. Prime the patch with an alkyd–based exterior primer on exterior wood and latex inside. Let the alkyd dry for 24 hours and latex about 2. Bricks can fall from any structure including steps and chimneys. To re-set bricks, use this process.Use a bag of pre-mixed mortar to make this repair. If you don't have the original brick to replace you should try to find one that closely matches or the difference may be distracting. If the brick structure you want to repair was build before the late 1800's don't use modern mortar and bricks to repair it. Because modern masonry is much harder than old brick and mortar, the patch will crush the surrounding older bricks as the structure moves naturally over time. If the replacement brick still has mortar on it, use a cold chisel to chip it off. Also clean mortar off the wall where you are replacing the brick. Soaking the brick in water for a long time may help to loosen the mortar making it easier to remove. In any case, soak the replacement bricks in a bucket of water for a couple of hours before replacing them. This will encourage a strong, permanent bond between the new mortar and the bricks. This is the most important thing you can do to make sure the replaced bricks stay put. Also soak the wall where the brick will be inserted. Use a spray bottle or a hose to soak the wall or steps repeatedly. The more water the wall brick absorbs the more likely the repair will be a success. When the bricks are ready, mix the mortar. Use the label guidelines to mix only as much mortar as you can use before it sets. Heap the mixed mortar onto the replacement brick and the wall, on all sides that make contact. Press the replacement brick into the mortar and shift it back and forth until it settles into it's original position. Scrape the excess mortar that oozes out. Wipe any mortar off the face of the brick with a wet rag of sponge before it sets. Be careful not to disturb the mortar between the bricks. Lay all the missing bricks in this manner and let the mortar set for about 24 hours. If the replaced brick is held in place by the new mortar alone, support it with a board or something else that will hold it in place until the mortar can set. Be careful not to disturb the brick and setting mortar while doing this.
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