In This Issue...
Bubbling or blistering in newly applied paint is an indication of a problem with the bond between the paint film and the painted surface. This is usually a problem with latex paints more than with alkyd or oil. In addition, shiny finishes like semi–gloss and eggshell are more likely to bubble than flat latex.
The paint bond can be ruined by a variety of causes. Dust, oil, water or any number of other contaminants can be covering wall, ceiling and trim surfaces. Moisture in wood or wall materials will also cause this problem. Failure to sand shiny, slick surfaces or failure to prime may also be to blame for bubbling paint. When doing new wall repairs, failure to remove all joint compound dust may cause the paint to bubble.
The best way to cure this problem is to prevent it before it happens. Trying to fix the bubbling by scraping and patching after it occurs will not work. Before attempting repairs let new latex paint cure for a couple of weeks and alkyd or oil paint dry for a couple of days.
—
To avoid bubbling in your new paint coat, prepare the surface properly. First, look for stains and dirt where you plan to paint and wipe them off. If necessary, wash the stains with soap and water or mineral spirits, if water doesn't cut it. Let the surface dry and prime the spots and surrounding surface with primer–sealer to be sure any residue from the stain is sealed.
If you are making repairs to drywall or plaster, brush off sanding dust and wipe the patches with a damp rag to remove any joint compound residue. Don't wipe too hard with the rag to avoid damaging the smooth patched surface. Let any moisture from the rag dry before priming. If you are repairing bubbling in a new paint coat, prime with primer–sealer to be sure the problem doesn't recure, otherwise use latex flat paint or latex primer. Let the primer dry for an hour or so before finish painting.
Milk paint, also called casein paint, is sometimes found in older houses on walls or as a finish on antique furniture. As the name implies this paint was made using milk as the vehicle. It has a hard finish and is impervious to paint strippers. You can spot casein paint by its very smooth finish and pale, pastel colors including: yellow, pink, blue and green.
If you have milk paint on your walls it will probably be a problem to paint or decorate with wallpaper because it doesn't hold a conventional paint finish well. Before you repaint over milk paint use a primer/sealer to seal it and you will greatly improve your chances of success. If you already have a problem with peeling paint over milk paint, scrape off all the loose paint and prime with primer–sealer before doing repairs. Provide plenty of ventilation to avoid breathing the harsh fumes from the primer and wear a painter's respirator when using it inside on large surfaces.
Weather Strip Doors and Windows
There are generally three types of weather stripping available at your local home store. The first is a strip of sponge foam with an adhesive on one side. This type is made to go along the side edges and bottom of a door or window sash. A second type consists of a metal band and a vinyl tube or strip. This type is made to go along the jamb next to the door or sash. The third type is a copper band designed to create a wedge in the gap between the jamb and the door or sash. The goal of all these designs is the same, to block air from passing thru the opening between the jamb and a door or window.
All these weather strips work equally well as long as they are installed correctly. By far the easiest one to install correctly for a do it yourselfer is the one pictured here. This weather strip consists of an aluminum band with a vinyl tube attached to one edge. This design blocks air by pressing the vinyl tube against the door or window gap.
This weather strip is usually intended for use on doors but can also be used on windows. It comes in packs of two long strips and one short strip. To install it, close the door or window and work from the outside. Measure along the top of the opening, right next to the moving part. Cut the short strip to fit from one side of the framing to the other.
While holding the top strip in place, press the vinyl tube against the crack and fasten the metal band to the jamb using the included screws. These screws are short enough to use a drill–driver to drive them without pilot holes.
Don't press the vinyl too tightly against the gap while driving the screws to avoid binding when you move the door or window sash. Drive the screws at the outer edge of the slotted screw holes to allow room for adjustment.
Measure the sides of the opening from the top strip to the threshold. Cut and install the side strips using every other screw hole and test the door or sash from smooth operation. If there is binding, loosen the screws and push the strip back a bit while tightening the screws again. Test again and install the remaining screws when you have the right adjustment.
To cover the gap at the bottom of the door or window opening, use a different type of weather stripping. For the bottom of doors use a "floor sweeper" weather strip. This is a metal band with a vinyl band attached to one edge. The vinyl covers the gap under the door and also moves freely back and forth as you move the door.
Use a foam tape to weather strip the bottom of a window sash. A very thin foam of about a sixteenth inch is all that is usually needed to block these gaps. Thicker foam may be too thick and make it impossible to completely close the window. Be sure the sash edge is clean and wipe or sand it if necessary to allow for a good bond before applying the weather strip tape.
There are two types of marble found around the house, genuine and cultured marble. Cultured marble is manmade and not stone at all. This surface can be cleaned with the usual household surface cleaners. Clean genuine marble using these homemade stain removers.
—
Clean oil and grease stains with a paste of acetone and whiting. Apply the paste and cover it with plastic. Let it stand overnight and rinse the paste off with hot water. Look for acetone and whiting at your local home store, if they don't have it, you can find it at a paint store.
—
Clean food stains with a paste of whiting, ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. Mix a thick paste with the whiting and peroxide. Apply the paste to the stain and sprinkle several drops of ammonia over it. Cover it with plastic wrap. Let the paste stand for 5 or 10 minutes and then rinse it off with hot water. If necessary apply the paste again, cover it and let it stand overnight.
—
To treat rust stains try a paste of 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, ¼cup baking soda and enough hydrogen peroxide to make a thick paste. Rub the paste into the stain and then let it sit for 30 minutes and wipe it off with a damp sponge. Rub the paste into the stain again and let it sit longer on tough stains.
When the stains are gone be sure there's not paste residue on the surface. Rinse the marble using hot water and let it dry. When it's dry buff to restore the shine. If the surface doesn't buff up use a marble polishing powder, available from hardware stores.
When your paint project goes longer than one day, keep your paint roller wet overnight with kitchen plastic wrap. Cut a piece of wrap two or three long. Fill the roller as you normally would to paint a wall and roll it into the wrap. Fold the ends of the plastic over the roller and cover the whole thing with a wet towel. The next day unroll the plastic and the roller is ready to use.
—
When brushing baseboards along carpeting it's pretty hard to avoid touching the paint to the carpet. When this happens use a putty knife to tuck the edge of the carpet under the baseboard to hide the paint. Slip the tip of the blade between the carpet and the baseboard. Pull the knife along the gap and the carpet will slide under the board. Be careful not to tuck too much carpet under, exposing unpainted baseboard. If this happens, try running the putty knife blade in the opposite direction to pull some of the carpet back out.
—
To clean paint that bleeds onto adjacent surfaces while brushing, dab a little solvent on a rag and wrap it over the end of a putty knife. Run the edge of the knife along the edge of the wet paint coat to absorb the bleed–over. Move the rag to a clean spot as it becomes saturated to avoid spreading the paint around.
|
