DIY Choosing and Using a Paint Roller
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Painting walls and ceilings with a paint roller is not complicated but it can require a certain touch for success with some finishes. The paint finish, i.e. eggshell, semi-gloss, etc., will sometimes have an impact on the quality of the paint job when rolling large areas. High–gloss, semi–gloss and to a lesser degree, eggshell paints may flash if not rolled properly. So the easiest, most foolproof way to get a professional quality paint job on walls and ceilings is to use quality, flat latex paint. Flat latex paint is very forgiving and will not show marks from repeated rolling and brush touch–ups.
If you must use shiny paint on walls and ceilings, always roll in complete strokes from one barrier to another such as from baseboard to ceiling. On ceilings and high walls this may be a problem because of the difficulty rolling complete strokes from one barrier to another so, if at all possible, use flat latex paint on these surfaces for the best results.
Choosing a Roller
Choose a paint roller that suits the paint and surface you are working with. Below is a list of surfaces and the best roller to use depending on the paint involved. As a basic rule use a short–nap roller for shiny paints like high or semi–gloss and a longer nap for flat paints. Use a 9 inch roller for large areas like walls and ceilings and a small "sausage" roller for small spaces. Choose a high quality roller for good coverage and to avoid material shedding from the nap. A good roller will last thru numerous paint jobs as long as it is washed well after use.
| Roller to Use | Paint | Surface |
|---|---|---|
| 1|4 to 3|8 inch polyester or sheepskin | High–gloss or semi–gloss. Latex or alkyd-based | Smooth to semi-smooth. Drywall, plaster, previously painted masonry |
| 3|8 to 1|2 inch polyester or sheepskin | Eggshell and flat. Latex or alkyd–based. | Smooth to semi-rough. Drywall, plaster, brick, textured walls and ceilings. |
| 3|4 to 1 inch polyester or sheepskin | All paints when working with rough surfaces or never before painted masonry. | Rough. Thick textured walls and ceilings. Bare masonry including brick and concrete. |
Sheepskin is recommended by some manufacturers when rolling alkyd and oil–based paints to completely eliminate roller material shedding into the paint finish. Most high quality polyester rollers do just as well and are about a fifth of the cost of sheepskin.
Brush Corners First
Before starting to roll, use a brush to paint wall and ceiling corners and around wood trim moldings. This is referred to as "cutting–in" or "cutting–out" by most professional painters. Once the brush work is done the wide open spaces can be painted using a paint roller and a roller extension pole.
Prepare the Paint Tray
Use a one gallon or larger paint roller tray. Shake the can or stir the paint to mix all the pigment before proceeding. Have a paint brush handy to clean the rim of the paint can and fill the tray to about half full. This would be a good time to do the brush work, with the paint in the can at a manageable level. See Paint Brushing Techniques for more.
Prepare the Roller
Slide the roller sleeve onto the roller handle and push it down tight. Fill the roller with paint by rolling it into the edge of the paint pool several times until the nap is saturated. If the nap becomes saturated with paint on one side, causing the roller to resists turning, hold it stationery with your hand and force the dry part into the paint until it is evenly saturated. Don't roll too deeply into the paint or place the roller in the pool to try and soak up the paint. This will create runs and roller marks from excess paint on the roller handle.
Work the paint into the roller by turning it repeatedly on the paint tray until it moves freely. Add more paint as needed to fill the nap and produce complete coverage before moving to the wall. With the paint evenly distributed in the roller, attach an extension pole and begin rolling the wall or ceiling starting at one corner of the room.
