DIY Repair Large Drywall Holes

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The following drywall repair method will work to repair large holes of a couple feet or more in walls and ceilings. This repair process requires the use of added wood framing to hold the drywall patch in place. To repair smaller drywall holes in walls, only, try the process here to patch drywall holes without adding wood framing.

We use a 30 minute setting–type joint compound for the first two coats of this repair. The third and final coat is made using ready–mixed drywall compound for easier final sanding and a smoother finish.

Cut a Drywall Patch

Start by cutting a piece of drywall a bit larger than the hole.

marking the wall to repair a drywall hole

Mark a Square Around the Damage

Hold the patch over the hole and mark around the sides with a pencil line on the wall.

Cut with a Saw

Cut out the hole, sawing from the center out to each corner with a drywall saw.

Score with a Knife

Score the pencil lines around the hole with a sharp drywall knife.

Remove the Drywall Scraps

Snap the drywall along the score lines and cut the damaged pieces free from the wall.

Check the Fit

Check to see that the drywall patch fits into the new hole easily and trim any obstructions that prevent a good fit.

repairing large wall holes with wood framing

Cut Wood Framing

Measure the opening of the new drywall hole and cut two furring strips, 6 inches longer than the opening. Mark the sides of the opening onto the wood pieces.

attaching wood framing for a drywall patch

Attach the Framing

Install the wood strips using the marks for positioning and attach them using drywall screws and a drill–driver. Hold the wood tightly to the inside of the wall while driving screws through the drywall and into the strip. Sink the screw heads just below the drywall surface.

Attach the Patch

Place the drywall patch over the new framing and attach it with drywall screws. Sink the screw heads below the wall surface.

Tape the Patch

Cover the seams around the patch with mesh drywall tape and overlap the ends at each corner.

Apply the Joint Compound

See the instructions for mixing and handling drywall mud and use a drywall joint knife to apply a thick coat of setting compound over the taped seams.

skim coating over a drywall patch with joint compound

Smooth the Compound

Immediately go back and skim the excess mud off of the tape and the surrounding wall surface. Go over the tape and patch a couple times to leave a semi–rough coat of mud, but don't try to hide the tape with the first coat, it will require a couple more to build up a smooth surface.

Sand the Patch

Let the joint compound set and dry and then lightly sand the tape with 120 medium grit sandpaper to knock off any mesh fibers and rough patches of compound.

second skim coating over a drywall patch

Apply a Second Coat of Compound

Mix and apply a second coat of setting compound. Spread a thick coat first and then immediately go over it to skim off the excess using parallel strokes across the patch. Use a wider joint knife and ignore any ridges left by the edge of the blade until the next coat. Allow the mud to set.

Apply a Third Coat of Compound

Scrape off any ridges from the previous coat and apply a third coat using ready–mixed joint compound. Use the same method of applying a thick coat first and then skimming off the excess mud. To aid in getting a level surface, stroke in the opposite direction of the previous coat. If you skimmed the mud horizontally before, skim with vertical strokes this time.

Sand and Touch Up the Paint

Allow the final coat of mud to dry completely and then sand the whole area. Use 120 grit medium sandpaper to sand the patch and feather the edges into the surrounding surface.

Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp rag and touch up the paint over the repair. If you are using flat latex finish paint it is self–priming. If you are using semi–gloss or other shiny paint, prime the patch with flat latex paint or a latex primer before touching up the finish.