DIY Repair Large Drywall Holes
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Repairing ceiling and wall holes in drywall and plaster can be done in a number of ways. For small holes of a couple of inches or less, a fiberglass mesh patch can be covered with a few coats of mud to make repairs. Larger holes will require the replacement of the missing drywall or plaster.
The following method requires the use of added wood framing to hold the ceiling patch in place. This method can be used to repair large holes of a couple feet and more in both walls and ceilings. Also try the process here to repair large holes in walls, without adding wood framing.
The setting and drying times in these instructions assume the use of a 30 minute setting–type joint compound like Durabond45® because it will work well for this repair. If you want to use a slower acting compound or ready–mixed drywall compound it will work but the mud must be allowed to dry completely between coats. For help applying joint compound use the skim coating techniques on this page.
Cut a Square Hole
Using a framing square, mark the wall surrounding the damaged area to form a square or rectangle. This will make it easier to cut a new piece of drywall to fill the hole. If there are studs or joists within a couple of inches of the damaged area, mark the opening to expose enough of the framing to fasten the new drywall patch. If no framing is handy, use the method below to add improvised framing.
Cut along the marks with a drywall saw or a drywall knife. For plaster with wood lath, use a reciprocating saw to cut cleanly thru the wood strips. While cutting, keep the saw base pressed firmly against the wall to avoid blade vibration that would crack the surrounding plaster.
Frame the Drywall Hole
Measure the opening of the squared hole you created. Cut two pieces of wood such as a 1x3 or 1x4, to 6 inches longer than the opening. Insert one of the wood strips into the hole and hold it tightly against the inside of the wall while using a screw driver or drill–driver, to turn a 1 5|8 inch drywall screw thru the gypsum board and into the wood strip.
With lath plaster drive the screw thru the wood lath and into the new wood. Bore a pilot hole first and use a longer screw if necessary for thick plaster walls. Sink the head of the screw to just below the wall surface.
Fasten the strip at the top and bottom and make sure the wood is firmly pressed against the inside of the wall. Attach the second wood strip using the same method.
If the damage is due to water or there's any other contamination present, seal the wall surface with a shellac–based primer–sealer and let it dry for about an hour before proceeding with the repair. Bubbling may develop in the finished repair if contamination inhibits bonding between the existing surface and the new drywall patch and joint compound. Sealing the surface will prevent this problem.
Install a New Drywall Patch
Cut a new piece of drywall to fit the hole and attach it to the new framing. With thick plaster walls where the hole is deeper than the drywall thickness, stack two pieces or shim the framing out until the patch is level or slightly indented in the wall.
If the paper edge of the drywall patch or the wall opening is ruffled from cutting with a saw, use a sharp drywall knife, held at an angle, to trim it off cleanly. This will eliminate any bulging in the finished repair caused by the raised paper edge.
Tape the Patch
Cover the seams around the patch with fiberglass mesh drywall tape. Overlap the ends of the tape at each corner. See the instructions for mixing and handling joint compound and apply a thick coat over the taped seams. Hold a joint knife at about 30° and coat the tape with back and forth strokes.
Immediately go back and skim the excess mud off to leave a thin film over the tape and surrounding surface. Don't try to hide the tape with the first coat of mud, it will require a few more to build a smooth patch.
Skim Coat the Patch
Let the mud over the seams set for about 30 minutes and then lightly sand the tape with 120 medium grit sandpaper to remove any raised fibers. Mix more mud and apply a thick coat over the whole patch, overlapping the edges.
Immediately skim off the excess mud in parallel strokes from one side of the patch to the other. Ignore any ridges left by the edge of the blade, you will scrape them off when the mud sets. Allow the mud to set for about 30 minutes, scrape off any ridges and lightly sand the tape again.
Mix and apply a third coat of mud over the whole patch. Skim the excess mud off, stroking in the opposite direction of the previous strokes. If you skimmed the mud horizontally before, skim with vertical strokes this time. This will fill in any pits and help to smooth out an uneven surface.
By now you should have a fairly smooth surface. If not, allow the mud to set and apply another skim coat. Keep building on the repair in this manner until you have a smooth surface.
Sand and Touch Up the Paint
Allow the final coat of mud to set and dry for at least an hour. Use 120 grit medium sandpaper to sand the repair lightly, feathering the edges into the surrounding surface.
Brush the dust from the repair and wipe with a damp rag to remove all joint compound residue before priming and painting. If you are using flat latex finish paint it is self–priming. If you are using semi–gloss or other shiny paint, prime the patch with flat latex paint or a latex primer first.
