The drywall repair method on this page can be used to patch holes of up to a square foot or so and down to a few inches, in drywall and plaster walls but not in ceilings. The drywall patch would sag if used on a ceiling, causing a bulge in the finished repair. Try the method here to repair large holes in ceilings.
We use a 30 minute setting–type joint compound, or mud, for the first few coats on this repair. The final coat is made using ready–mixed drywall compound for easier final sanding and a smoother finish.
Using a framing square, mark the wall surrounding the hole to form a square.
Cut out the hole, sawing from the center out to each corner with a drywall saw.
Score the pencil lines around the hole with a sharp drywall knife. Snap the drywall along the score lines and cut the damaged pieces free to form a new, squared hole.
Cut a piece of drywall about 4 inches larger than the new hole.
Turn the drywall to the back and holding it against the wall, mark the size of the new hole on the patch. Mark the dimensions to be a little smaller than the opening in the wall, to make the patch fit easily without forcing.
Join the marks on the back of the drywall patch with a pencil line and score each one with a sharp drywall knife.
Snap the drywall along one score–line at a time and pull the backing paper and gypsum core away, leaving the facing paper attached to the patch.
See the instructions for mixing and handling setting joint compound. Mix about a cup of the powdered compound as directed and then thin it with a little more water than recommended. This will make it easier to stick the new patch to the wall.
Apply a thick coat of mud around the perimeter of the hole, overlapping the inner edges.
Press the drywall patch into the opening. Lightly press the paper flaps into the mud so they make good contact. Push lightly on the center of the patch to be sure it is seated into the hole and level with the wall, or slightly indented. Don't allow the patch to sit above the wall level, this will create a bulge in the finished repair.
Use a drywall joint knife to squeeze the mud from between the wall and the paper edges of the patch. Work around the perimeter of the patch, pressing firmly with the joint knife to squeeze all but a very thin coat of mud from between the paper and the wall. Stroke away from the center of the patch in a radial pattern. Make sure the patch is flush with, or just below the wall surface and let the mud set.
When the first application is dry, cover the patch and surrounding wall with a thick coat of setting joint compound.
With a wide joint knife, immediately skim off the excess mud to smooth it out. Go over the patch a couple times to leave a semi–smooth finish and let the mud set.
When the patch is dry use ready–mixed joint compound to apply a final coat. Apply a thick coat of mud first and then skim off the surface to leave a smooth finish. To help level the patch, skim the mud with perpendicular strokes to the pervious coat. If you stroked horizontally with the last coat, stroke vertically with this one.
Allow the mud to dry completely and sand the repair, feathering the edges into the surrounding wall surface. Wipe the dust from the repair with a damp rag to remove all joint compound residue before priming and painting.
If you are using flat latex finish paint, you can use it to prime the repair. If you are using semi–gloss or other shiny paint, prime with flat latex paint or a latex primer first.
Video: How to Repair Holes in Drywall or Plaster
Video demonstration of repairing a wall hole.
youtube.com
How to Repair Walls
Pictures and step-by-step instruction for repairing various wall holes and cracks.
familyhandyman.com
How to Repair Walls
Pictures and instructions for repairing holes and cracks in walls and ceilings.
diynetwork.com