DIY Drywall Repair Small Holes

• Repair Nail Pops
• Repair Large Wall Holes
• Repair Large Ceiling Holes
• Skim Coating Techniques

Use setting–type joint compound for this project to make a durable, smooth repair in about 2 hours. We don't recommend the use of ready–mixed joint compound or vinyl spackle for this repair. Ready–mixed compound, because it takes too long to dry and is too soft and vinyl spackle because it takes too long to dry and is too hard.

Clear Debris from the Hole

Remove all loose wall material and cut any torn drywall paper from the perimeter of the hole. For plaster holes, clean out loose sand and white coats using a putty knife. Also scrape around the edges to remove any peeling paint.

If the damage is due to water or there's any other contamination present, seal the surface around the hole with a shellac–based primer–sealer and let it dry for about an hour before proceeding with the repair. Bubbling may develop in the finished repair if contamination inhibits bonding between the existing surface and the new drywall patch and joint compound. Sealing the surface will prevent this problem.

Patch the Hole

Apply a self–sticking patch, at least ½ inch larger than the hole. Use a patch reinforced with an aluminum plate on ceilings to eliminate the possibility of sagging. These are also good for wall holes caused by a door handle, that will likely be damaged again. On small holes use fiberglass mesh drywall tape for patching.

Cover the Patch with Mud

See the instructions for mixing and handling joint compound and cover the patch with a thick coat of mud.

Immediately skim the excess mud off to leave a thin film over the patch and surrounding surface. Hold the joint knife at about 30° and press down hard as you stroke across the patch. Be careful not to lift the mesh. If this happens, straighten it out flat, spread a little more mud over it and skim again.

Don't try to hide the patch with the first coat of mud. It will require at least 2 more to cover the mesh and blend the patch into the wall.

Sand the Tape Fibers

Allow the first coat of mud to set for about 30 minutes then use 120 grit medium sandpaper to lightly sand the patch and dried mud. Sand gently with a couple of strokes to remove any mesh fibers raised by the mud.

Apply a Second Coat of Mud

Mix and apply a second thick coat of mud over the whole patch. Skim the excess mud off, stroking in the opposite direction of the previous strokes. If you skimmed the mud horizontally before, skim vertically this time. This will fill in any pits and help to smooth out an uneven surface.

Remember to skim off the edges of the repair as you go so the mud doesn't build up there and require a lot of sanding when you're done. Let the mud set and follow with as many skim coats as needed to smooth the patch.

Sand and Touch Up the Paint

Allow the final coat of mud to set and dry for at least an hour. Use 120 grit medium sandpaper to sand the repair lightly, feathering the edges into the surrounding surface. Be careful sanding at the edges of the patch, especially on drywall. The sandpaper can dig into the surrounding surface while you're trying to smooth out rough edges. Lightly sand across the edges to feather a smooth transition between the two surfaces.

Brush the dust from the repair and wipe with a damp rag to remove all joint compound residue before priming and painting. If you are using flat latex finish paint it is self–priming. If you are using semi–gloss or other shiny paint, prime the patch with flat latex paint or a latex primer first.