Installing decorative trim molding is one of the quickest and easiest ways to improve the appearance of a room. This can be a simple one–piece, shaped board or it can be an elaborate design made by combining multiple profiles and finished lumber.
This page contains several examples of common molding profiles available at home stores as well as links to trim molding ideas for building combination baseboards, chair rails, door casings, window casings and crown.
While many of the trim styles and molding profiles available may only be found at a lumberyard or millwork, the basic designs on this page can be found at most local home stores.
The moldings pictured on this page include a couple of different grades, usually called stain–grade and paint–grade. The grade to choose will depend on where it will be installed, whether you want paint or natural wood, and how much you want to spend.
Stain–grade or solid wood moldings are much more expensive than paint–grade and are often reserved for crown, mantels and staircases where a natural wood finish can add dimension and interest to a room. Moldings that dominate a room like door casings, window casings, chair rails and baseboards are usually done with paint–grade. This keeps things looking brighter than with natural wood that can be dark and absorb much of the light in a room.
Wood is considered stain–grade or suitable for a clear finish if it is solid and of top quality with no seams, knots or other blemishes. Because the wood will show through the finish, any imperfections like this would be very noticeable. Hardwoods are usually used to make stain–grade trim with red oak being the most popular at home stores.
These hardwoods can be finished with a pigmented stain followed by a clear varnish or a clear coat can be used alone to bring out the natural beauty of woods like cherry and maple. Stain is usually used to change the appearance of the wood like oak.
Paint–grade moldings may be made of wood or one of several synthetic materials. Wood may be in solid pieces or it may be manufactured by gluing short pieces together with finger–joints. This manufactured trim is usually pre–primed to make finishing easier. Pine is the most common wood used for paint–grade but poplar is also used, particularly when milled for a custom ordered profile.
Synthetic paint–grade molding are produced by pressing a profile into plaster, medium density fiberboard (MDF) or plastics like polystyrene and polyurethane. Of these, MDF is probably the most widely available.
Plaster profiles are used mostly for ceiling medallions to go around light fixtures. Plastics are available for casings, chair rail and crown molding systems that allow for installation without mitered joints. These synthetics will usually come pre–primed and ready for finish paint.
In addition to the simple profiles pictured on this page, an original and elaborate trim molding design can be created using two or more pieces in combination. This may be necessary to match an existing profile or you may wish to have a unique trim design for your room.
Building combination molding like the baseboard pictured here doesn't have to be hard or complicated. Each piece is cut and installed, one on top of the other, to build up the profile.
This design features 3 small molding pieces stacked on top of a 1x6 and a piece of shoe mould along the floor. Small strips behind the finish board push the face of the trim out to mate with thick door casings like those found in Victorian style trim.
Most of these wood profiles are available in several sizes. Check your local supplier for availability, the size you need can probably be ordered if it's not in stock.
Back Band:
Use this to wrap the square side on one–piece baseboard and casings to create a wider profile, with two decorated edges. Also used for capping on wainscot or building combination profiles. A custom back band can be made by cutting a rabbet along the back of a piece of base cap if the desired profile isn't available.
Base Cap:
To build a baseboard use base cap like this to trim the top of a piece of 1by finish lumber. Use a piece of shoe mould, pictured below, to trim along the floor edge. This profile, as with the others on this page, is also available in larger pieces for trimming walls and ceilings and custom installations.
Baseboard:
Used to trim between a wall and finished flooring. A decorative edge is cut in the top of the one–piece baseboard pictured here. These are quick and easy to install and can also be used in combination with a back band to build door and window casings or as a backer board for crown and cornices.
Brick Mould:
This thick wood trim is commonly used to finish around the exterior of a door or window frame. Also try using brick mould in combination with other profiles on this page to build combination and stacked profiles.
Bullnose:
This profile is commonly used to finish the edge of tongue and groove flooring but can also be used for many other applications including a top on chair rails or a bead in combination cornices, crown, baseboards.
Casings:
Used to decorate and cover the gap between jambs and the wallboard around doors and windows. Several one–piece casings are available or a unique casing can be created using two or more different pieces.
Chair Rail:
Used to protect a wall from scratches caused by chairs placed too close and usually found in dining rooms where this is a common problem. This too is available in one piece or it can be built using two or more separate pieces of decorative wood.
Corner Bead:
Used to protect outside wall corners preventing wallboard chipping at vulnerable edges. Also used to finish outside corners on wall paneling. When used to wrap the outer edge of a 1x4 or 1x6, this corner bead works well to create custom casings for windows and doors.
Cove:
Sometimes used as crown between walls and ceilings or in combination with other profiles to build custom designs. Also use this molding to finish inside corners when installing wall paneling.
Crown:
Used to trim the right angle formed between walls and ceilings. This one–piece design can be used alone or in combination with other profiles to created an original crown molding design. See Installing Crown Molding for installation help.
Dentil:
This trim can be installed below a crown profile for a traditional design or try stacking it in combination with a back band, cove, base cap or other small piece to build door and window casings or chair rails.
Half–Round:
Used to finish edges on plywood and other sheet goods when making shelving and other case work. Also used to build custom crown, chair rail and casing.
Panel Mould:
Use these small pieces to build wainscot frames on walls or to decorate cabinetry, crowns and cornices, door and window casings, chair rails and furniture.
Picture Rail:
Used to hang artwork. These moldings were used extensively in older houses to protect plaster walls that would be easily damaged with picture hooks or nails. This profile will also work well to make combination molding designs.
Rake Mould:
Also called solid crown, this wood trim works well in many combination or stacked applications. Try using one of these for shoe molding or door stop or cut a rabbet along the back to create custom back band designs.
Rosette:
Used at the top of door and window casings to form corners using butt joints instead of miters. Also a good choice on corners of some custom ceiling designs.
Screen Mould:
A thin band traditionally used on porch and window screens. Commonly available in 3|4 inch widths making it convenient for banding to finish the edge on plywood and other sheet goods when making shelve and cabinets.
Shoe Mould:
Used to cover gaps between baseboards and flooring, this is a quarter round piece milled with one flat edge wider than the other. Install with the shorter edge against the floor.
Stop Bead:
Used at the stop point for a swinging door or along the edge of a window sash. Also use a decorative stop bead to enhance custom designs.
Threshold Saddle:
Use this in doorways to transition between two rooms with different types of flooring or to cover rough finishes when installing a new interior door. Use a flat saddle to blend wood and carpet or tile and carpet floors. Use a saddle with a shallow rabbet along one edge if there is a difference in floor height.